Old Rag, Shenandoah National Park, April 2017

Old Rag, rated as Shenandoah National Park’s most exhilarating hike and highest mountain at 3,268 feet, became my obsession in February 2017, around the same time as Half Dome. I had persuaded my best friend, Rene, to accompany me on this journey. I would make all the preparations, study the trail, and have us ready to explore the mountain by the end of April.

Old Rag is not a hike to be taken lightly. I have described my fear of heights and overcoming that fear, or at least powering through the fear, has become a common theme on most of my adventures. But, as with all the other challenges, knowing the boundaries of one’s mind is essential, one “freak out” not only places yourself at risk but others on the trail, as well. I know I can keep my anxieties in control most of the time, and when I can’t, I understand how to back away until I can rationally make my next move. Being prepared, studying the trail, and knowing what to expect is essential in mentally preparing yourself for such a hike.

We left on a Wednesday morning for Shenandoah National Park, a 10-hour drive, with one goal; to summit Old Rag. Again. I was determined, and unlike Indian Staircase, I was traveling too far to give up.

We tent camped at Big Meadows Campground located just off Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park. We arrived just after dark on that Wednesday, and the weather was less than ideal; cold and raining. We set up in the downpour, careful to keep our belongings as dry as possible. We didn’t stay awake long that night. We had a free day of hiking scheduled the next day, before our “big hike” on that Friday. I’ll cover the few other hikes separately. On Friday morning, we woke early to be on the trailhead before 8 am.

The trailhead to Old Rag is not within the park. It is about a 30-40 minute drive down Skyline Drive and down old, country roads, so allow yourself the extra time to reach your destination. You can acquire permits to park and climb Old Rag at the parking area ranger station located about 0.8 miles from the actual trailhead to Old Rag.

The climb begins in the forest, with a gradual and steady elevation gain, but I was not in the best of shape, and this part of the hike left me out of breath. The weather was perfect for scrambling and bouldering, and we were anxious to get above treeline to the exposed granite that made up the surface of the mountain. Less than a tenth of a mile to go to the scramble, I could feel my anxiety increasing.

As we arrived at the first area of exposed granite, the grade appeared steeper than what I felt comfortable climbing. I honestly thought about turning back for the car. Rene and I stood and watched a couple of other people scramble up the boulder without any issue, and asking one girl we passed, “is this as bad as it gets?”

She answered, “yeah, the rest is just climbing over rocks.”

That was the biggest lie I have ever heard while hiking. We made our way up the rock; my hands were trembling on the first scramble of the climb. This hike was going to be a long and gruesome challenge for me. Finishing the first scramble, we got the first of many astounding views of the day. Feeling quite accomplished, and with the resounding, “this is as bad as it gets,” I was eager to see more.

Once on the granite section, the trail is well marked with blue blazes, conveniently numbered 1-42. The summit is at the 42nd blaze, and I suggest while climbing, you have the next point in view before proceeding with the climb.

We advanced our way through several bouldering segments, and we came to a ravine that dropped what I remember being about 15 feet. At first, I gazed at the bottom thinking, “this is impossible.” We watched two young men “spiderman” their way down the walls. The rocks were about 3 feet apart, both men placed each leg on the sides of the ravine, lowering themselves to the floor; essentially “walking” the wall to the bottom.

Nope. No way. I am convinced this is the part where I will turn around. The two guys turn their heads up towards us and offer to hold our packs while we lower ourselves down. Before thinking, I threw mine down. Rene followed.

Wait! What was I thinking?

That sealed it. I would become spiderwoman, and I was first to stretch my legs between the two walls. My body was shuddering as I slowly and carefully lowered myself to the floor of the ravine. I looked back up at Rene. I realized there was no way we could climb back up, and I would have no choice but to continue the scrambling, bouldering, and in some cases, rock climbing 101 from this point on regardless of what we encountered.

Rene gracefully brought herself down; she seemed to have no fear. I was amazed. Looking at her I said, “we have no choice but to go forward from here.”

The guys laughed, gave us our packs, and continued on their way.

There were several places on this trail we were searching for the best handholds, footholds, and places to climb the boulders. Rene is a little shorter than I am; her legs didn’t reach the heights that mine did on the real tall rocks.

None of the trail blogs I had read had prepared me for the exact amount of bouldering we would be doing. Very few focused on much other than it was a “strenuous hike," but the amount of upper body strength used was more than I was prepared to handle. The blue blazes helped tremendously to keep us on track to where we were supposed to be going, but my arms and shoulders were tired. I knew I would be sore the next day.

My memory is terrible, so I don’t remember what came next in correct order, but we came to a small cave that we had to walk through to get to the other side. By this point in the hike, I was wondering what else could possibly be thrown at me on this adventure. There was a sense of apprehension growing inside of me to go any further.

My apprehension grew with each blue blaze we passed. I am not positive on the distance, or even the number on the flame, but we reached a granite slab about 20 feet tall with a blue blaze leading up the side.

Uh, no, just no. There was no logical way we could maneuver up this one. Rene took the lead. In less than 30 seconds, she had chosen her path and proceeded up to the top of the boulder. She had climbed a rock, stretched her body over to a thin ledge, maybe a foot wide on the opposite side of the stone we were supposed to climb. Then she placed both feet on the opposite wall; basically walking her way to the top. There was a 20-foot drop between the gap where her legs crossed; with one misstep, the hike would be over. She successfully stood on that boulder while I stared frozen from below.

This maneuver was my apprehension, and it was what I had anticipated throughout the journey. In my judgment, this boulder is where I would fail. This challenge is where I would have to turn back. I stared at the blue blaze directing me to the top of the rock. I climbed onto the landing she used to step on the edge. I climbed back down. I climbed up once more; shaking my head, I retreated to the safe ground. I looked for another way, hoping I would find an easier route. This blaze could not mark the way everyone moved through. Rene said, “I’m waiting. When I finish my sandwich, your time is up.”

Really? I am being timed by how long it takes to consume a sandwich.

I cussed, I punched the wall, I shed a tear or two. I knew I wasn’t going to succeed. There was no doubt in my mind I was going to have to surrender. Silence from above, she didn’t say a word as I worked through the methods in my mind, repeating the steps I had made before, up on the landing and then back down. I could not put my foot on that ledge with the 20-foot sheer drop to the ground.

From the top, I heard, “okay, time’s up, this is what we came here for, get your ass up that mountain.”

She was right; this hike is why I had traveled to Virginia. I wanted to succeed, and success or failure were my choices. I was NOT giving up here. I took a deep breath, climbed on the landing, placed my right foot on the "ledge of death," and stared down at the frightening drop. My heart was racing, my body was trembling, and my hands were sweaty. I pulled myself up on the small ledge, and while balancing on one foot, I pivoted around to face my ultimate goal. I stretched my other leg up towards the final landing I was sure I couldn’t reach, and I lunged with every bit of courage I possessed to the top of the rock my friend had so patiently waited for me to conquer.

I was shaking when I got to the top. I immediately collapsed on the granite and started crying. I had done it, and I was overwhelmed with emotion; shocked I had found the strength to overcome that fear. Rene caught it all on camera. Looking at the pictures, I remember the terrifying moment I chose to defeat my worst irrational fear, and I was free.

After that climb, nothing else we would encounter would test my will as extremely as that one boulder. We continued our climb, up and over rocks, across small gaps, and we grew more excited as the numbers passed on the blazes.

At the summit, we celebrated our victory. The views were unbelievable; I was astonished. The excitement of reaching the peak after putting forth the effort we had was rewarding. Another hike I strongly recommend, but be prepared for a tough climb. I would love to give this one a go again. I am not sure I could do it better, but it was a fun and challenging trail well worth the drive and the struggle.

Tips For Hiking Old Rag:

1. Arrive at the parking area early. Old Rag is a very popular hike, and the parking area fills quickly. Purchase permits from the ranger station located at the end of the parking area before beginning the access road to the trailhead of Old Rag.

2. Know your limits, Old Rag is physically challenging; 9 miles total with just over a mile of bouldering and scrambling. Persons with a fear of heights need to be prepared. I am not saying it cannot be done; I am living proof with an intense fear of heights climbing Old Rag is possible. But research where you are going and be prepared for mental challenges as well.

3. Wear shoes that fit well and have aggressive tread. Flip flops, smooth sole shoes, and crocs are not suitable for this hike. Tennis shoes may be okay, although I don’t recommend them, but they have decent tread to keep you steady on some of the scrambles.

4. Carry enough water, I had a 2 liter hydration pack and 4 sports drinks to start the trail. By the end, I was down to my last bit of water. It was hot and humid on the day of our hike, so pack according to the weather.

5. This is an all day hike, allow yourself enough time to finish without having to rush through. You will want plenty of time to take in the views.

6. Bring snacks and pack a small lunch if you want. There are many places along the way to have a small picnic, and the views allow for a perfect backdrop to enjoy a little rest while you enjoy lunch.

7. Bring a headlamp. No one needs to be on Old Rag after dark. As I say in all of my suggestions, some contingencies cannot be avoided, and being prepared can save your life.

8. Bring a first aid kit. My friend had a few places where she scraped her leg, and I had one cut to my finger. The first aid kit came in handy.

9. Extra socks are always one of my recommendations, feet sweat which can lead to blisters, so dry socks can help to prevent those.

10. Sunscreen is always important. You spend a great deal of time on exposed granite above treeline, and the sun can be intense. Apply plenty and apply often.

11. Although not common, Old Rag is bear territory. Always be bear aware and have a plan in place should you encounter any wildlife.