“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity; and that mountain parks and reservations are useful not only as fountains of timber and irrigating rivers, but as fountains of life.”
Hiking Delicate Arch, Arches National Park
May 2018
My cousin, Katy, and I traveled to Utah in May of 2018 to hike The Mighty Five, starting at Arches National Park and ending with the iconic Angel’s Landing hike in Zion National Park. We flew into Salt Lake, rented an economy car, and made our way to Moab, Utah. Moab is a very touristy location, most of the area serving incoming travelers, like ourselves, and offering guides and advice for hikers heading to the nearest park.
We started our exploration in Arches National Park with one of the most popular hikes, Delicate Arch. We had arrived in Moab in the late afternoon, with enough time to see the sunset behind the arch we had read about before. Katy met a friend in Moab, “Gator Bill," with whom she had worked with in Yellowstone. He was an older gentleman; kind and genuine, and he wished to join us on our outing. The trail is a 3 mile, up and back, located about 13 miles into the park.
The parking lot was crowded when we arrived just before 6 pm. I prefer the silence and serenity of an empty trail, but in cases such as Delicate Arch, expecting the path would be empty at this time of year was unreasonable.
The trail starts on level terrain, well-marked, and pleasant. After crossing the bridge at Salt Wash, the trace begins its ascent up Slick Rock, a mostly sandstone path marked every so often with cairns stacked neatly up the side of the trail. On two occasions, my foot slipped because I had failed to plant my leading foot before lifting my other. Although losing your footing is unsettling, a fall here would result in more of a loss of pride than of severe injury.
About a mile through our hike, Gator Bill was showing signs of fatigue but determined to see the arch; he pressed on. We were making decent time, and it seemed we’d surely arrive at the arch before sundown. Gator Bill slowed his pace, and we questioned his ability to finish both the hike and have enough energy for the descent. However, he was not going to give up. His determination was inspiring, and I am not going to lie, a little concerning. Katy stayed with Gator Bill; I hiked ahead of the two of them.
Not realizing how far I had spaced myself from my hiking partners, I turned to see they were nowhere in sight. I proceeded to the ledge winding around a sandstone bluff and turned a corner revealing the most incredible view of the arch. There was a bowl-like feature leading down from where I stood, but it was a little steep for my nerves to take the climb. I found a place to sit and wait for my companions to arrive. I watched the people, some with tripods and cameras, waiting to capture the sunset through the arch. I was in awe.
After some time had passed, I started to worry about my friends. Deciding I should search for them; I retreated back toward the ledge that led back down the trace. I had convinced myself the path had become too difficult for our older friend, and the two of them had returned to the car anticipating my return.
At the trailhead, I searched the parking lot and found our car locked and empty. I wasn’t positive whether I should proceed back up the trail to find them or wait where I was standing and let them find me.
The darkness was settling over the area. I could see a trail of headlamps leading from the top as droves of people were making their way down. It was as if a thousand stars were descending the sandstone, and I watched the parade in wonderment. My thoughts went back to my two fellow hikers. I knew I had the headlamp; Katy had forgotten to pack hers, and I wasn’t sure if Gator Bill had one. At that moment, I decided I needed to help them safely find their way in the dark. I strapped on my headlamp, pulled my backpack on, and started back up the three-mile trail leading to Delicate Arch. Several people passed me as they were descending the path, and I asked everyone if they had seen either of my comrades. Surprisingly, each person could tell me, “they are a little further up making their way down.” Relief washed over me. They were making progress, but I know Katy’s hiking skill, and I knew if she was struggling, something wasn’t right. About a mile into my hike, I passed another group of hikers and asked the question again. This time they answered, “They are right behind us.”
In the glow of the other headlamps, I could see my friends, one with a walking stick, the other holding onto his arm aiding him in maintaining his footing. They were slow moving, but they were safe, and I was elated to locate them.
They told the story of their hike, and I regretted not returning sooner. Not long after I had separated from my group, Katy and Gator Bill also got separated. Katy proceeded up the trail to the bowl before Delicate Arch; the opposite side from where I stood. Gator Bill had disappeared into the crowd of people before she had turned around. She had spent an hour trying to find him. She was almost panicked in her search, and when she asked another hiker if he had seen him, the hiker responded, “Well, I hope he didn’t fall over the edge.” This statement had sent Katy into hysterics, hearing what her mind had already thought made it a genuine possibility. When they did find one another, Gator Bill could not understand Katy’s response and excitement of finding him. With tears in her eyes, she hugged him and tried to explain the frantic search she had endured.
We stopped and rested on a rock before I took the lead to get us back to the parking area, my headlamp giving us enough light to guide the way. I am confident Katy was more excited than me to be back at the car and wishing she had started her trip in Arches National Park on better terms. But we were all safe, we were all hungry, and Katy and I were exhausted.
Delicate Arch was the highlighted hike in Arches National Park. We had planned for that to be our first sunset in Utah. While we each experienced the beauty of the dusk differently, it didn't go as planned. We had no regrets; we had six more days to explore Utah and several more attempts to capture the sunset the way we had imagined.
Tips for this Hike:
Wear fitting shoes that have aggressive tread. I have Keens, and despite the mixed reviews, I have not had any problems with these shoes. I wore Targhee Vent: comfortable, fitting, and they don’t break the bank. https://www.keenfootwear.com/footwear/
Drink plenty of water. Depending on the time of year, Utah is HOT. 2 liters in a hydration pack or a few bottles of water per person should be enough. I always recommend a hydration pack and a few sports drinks to help replace electrolytes lost while sweating. This is a shorter hike, those may not be necessary, but always handy to have “just in case.” Downside, this does add weight to your pack.
Always pack a first aid kit. Adhesive bandages and mole skin are a must on hikes that may produce blisters. I also pack antibiotic ointment and lip balm.
Bring a headlamp. Regardless of whether you plan on being back before dark, there is always a chance something could happen to keep you from returning to the trailhead before the sun goes down.
Sunscreen is a must. In climates such as Utah or any really, where the sun is shining regardless of temperatures, sunscreen becomes your best friend. Apply before starting the trail and every hour or two depending on the intensity of the sun. You can usually feel the heat on your skin before the burn begins. Apply, apply, and then apply again.
Bring extra socks. I always carry an extra pair of socks in case my feet begin to sweat or if I need extra padding on certain hikes. On Delicate Arch, I did not have to use them, but they stay in my bag at all times.
Carry tape. Surgical, duct, gorilla, or packing tape can become a hiker’s best friend. If anything breaks or comes apart, you can usually fix it temporarily with tape until a more permanent fix can be arranged.
Wear or carry a hat and sunglasses. On hot and sunny days, a hat and sunglasses protect your face, head, and eyes from the rays of the sun. A breathable hat is best, one that covers your neck area is better, although I never wear one of those. Don’t worry about those tan lines; if you’re applying sunscreen correctly, tan lines won’t be a problem.
Wear bug spray. Mosquitoes can ruin a hike, especially after a rain or at daybreak and dusk. Other biting insects can also cause you to be miserable. Your best bet? Keep the spray handy and use it as directed.
Bring snacks. Although not as important as water, snacks keep you going when you’re in for the long haul. High carbohydrate snacks deliver a burst of energy while protein snacks deliver more sustainable energy. I typically carry both in my bag on every hike I take.
Hike with a partner if possible, and do not get separated from your group. More time is wasted searching for each other than enjoying the scenery, so stick together.